Feature: Rolex Daytona: Steel Vs Precious Metal
Currently the most in-demand Rolex sports model, the Daytona was met with indifference when it debuted in 1963. That all changed thanks to a few technical upgrades and an endorsement from Hollywood royalty. We look at some of the key steel and precious-metal versions of this legendary chronograph, and consider the pros and cons of both materials to help you choose the best version for you.
Rolex Daytonas in steel
The current line-up
It’s no secret that Rolex appears to be making less of its iconic sports models in steel as it leans ever further away from its tool-watch origins. In fact, at Watches and Wonders 2024 the brand’s marquee unveilings were almost all gold watches, with the exception of a new steel GMT-Master II.
The very latest steel Daytona with black dial, reference 12500LN
Nowhere is this more evident than the Daytona collection which is now dominated by precious-metal versions, many of which are also adorned with gemstones. In fact, there are currently just two plain stainless-steel models listed on the Rolex website, identical but for dial colour—one featuring a black dial and the other white, both paired with a steel Oyster bracelet.
The only other steel Daytona currently available in the Rolex line-up, with white dial
Traditionally, steel Daytonas have always been monochrome, with precious-metal versions given far more artistic licence.
Both these steel Daytonas, as with all other current models, are fitted with the very latest calibre 4131 movement. This replaced the long-running calibre 4130, which Rolex began using in 2000.
Discontinued classics
Since we’re still in steel Daytona territory, don’t expect to find any outlandish dial designs or coloured bezels here. Steel Daytonas of the past three decades look much like the current versions, minus a few incremental aesthetic tweaks, as is the Rolex way.
Before the current reference 126500 came the 116500, which featured a slightly thicker case and was powered by the aforementioned calibre 4130. Before that was the 116520 and before that was the neo-vintage 16520 (below) which was powered by the Zenith El Primero-based movement that Rolex outsourced from 1988 to 2000.
The "Zenith" Daytona reference 16520 with the 4030 calibre, a modified El Primero movement
As you can see, this watch featured a plain steel bezel, rather than today’s fade-proof hi-tech Cerachrom.
For more noticeable differences in design, you have to go back to the 1980s, and then we’re firmly into vintage territory…
Notable vintage models
The last Daytona references to feature a manual-wind movement—before Rolex began outsourcing automatic movements from Zenith—were the 6263 and the 6265. These pre-automatic versions, discontinued in the late 80s, can usually be identified by their three subdials, which don’t have a concentric design (i.e., an outer track), as well as their significantly smaller case sizes.
A vintage steel Daytona, reference 6263. Image courtesy of Bonhams
There is also less text below the crown at 6 o’clock, with one, two or three lines of text rather than the slightly crowded five found on contemporary models.
Without this, the earlier models have a more minimalist, cleaner look, which is enhanced by a slimmer bezel.
Of course, the pinnacle of Daytonas for serious collectors are the highly prized versions worn by the late Hollywood actor Paul Newman.
His personal watch, a reference 6239 with a case back featuring an engraved message from his wife, Joanne, sold at a Phillips auction for $17.7m in 2017. It was the highest price ever paid for a wristwatch, and it wasn’t even precious metal.
Proof, as if it were needed, that provenance and rarity is king.
The record-breaking vintage Daytona owned by Paul Newman. Image courtesy of Phillips
Similar models that sometimes came with so-called “exotic” dials—where the markers on the subdials look like square lollipops—frequently sell for six-figure sums. Seek out four-digit vintage references like the 6241, 6265 and the 6262, but brace yourself for an eye-watering price tag.
Rolex surprised everyone in 2023 by bringing out a new Daytona model with these retro-style subdials—the first time they had been featured in a new Rolex since the 1970s—but it was only available in white gold.
This "Le Mans" version, as it was called, celebrated the 100th anniversary of the famous 24-hour race and, to the dismay of Rolex fans, was removed from the catalogue a mere 10 months later.
Rolex Daytonas in precious metal
The current line-up
The number fluctuates, but at any one time you can expect to find between thirty and forty variations of precious-metal Daytonas in the Rolex catalogue
They come in rose gold, yellow gold, white gold and platinum, the latter always easily identified by its ice-blue dial. The most recent platinum model also comes with a true Rolex rarity—an exhibition caseback.
The latest platinum Daytona features an exhibition caseback
This allows you to admire the movement within, unlike most Rolex models which conceal their movement behind an austere steel caseback. Great for inscribing sentimental messages on, should you wish to do so, but somewhat bland compared to some of the elaborate engravings and laser etchings found on the reverse of some luxury watches.
What certainly aren’t bland are the several mother-of-pearl dials found within the Daytona family. These elevate the collection to something far more luxurious, even coming with diamond hour markers and bezels.
This one released at Watches and Wonders 2024 is a highlight of the current collection.
Hands down the most flamboyant Daytona in the current line-up
Within the Daytona family you can also find two-tone and sporty gold versions paired with an Oysterflex rubber bracelet, which is something found only on two other Rolex models besides the Daytona, namely gold Yacht-Masters and the Sky-Dweller. These may look like straps but Rolex insists on calling them bracelets, and who are we to argue?
After all, their patented design consists of a titanium and nickel-alloy blade covered in tough black elastomer, and you can expect them to last for years longer than a standard rubber or leather strap.
Discontinued classics
The “John Mayer” Daytona, reference 116508, named after the US rock star who owns one, was produced between 2016 and 2023 and is one of the most striking Daytona designs of recent years. Made from yellow gold, it boasts a forest-green dial with red accents.
The "John Mayer" Daytona teams a deep-green dial with yellow-gold and the result is pretty stunning
Just as distinctive are the Daytonas with a “Racing” dial. These are versions where the standard baton hour markers are replaced with bold Arabic applied numerals for a sportier appearance. You can only find these dials on gold and two-tone models.
The bold numerals of a Daytona with "Racing dial", no longer in production
And then there are the Daytona “Beach” models, characterised by vibrant dial and strap colours that look more at home in a candy store. These collectible Daytonas in white gold hit the boutiques in 2000 and surprised everyone with how “un-Rolex” they were.
Dials were made from mother-of-pearl or semi-precious stone like turquoise and they were paired with matching lizard-skin straps.
For a touch of Miami glamour, check out the vibrant "Beach" Daytonas
For the more outrageous collector, Rolex has also released the sensational Rainbow and Leopard Daytonas. Proof that when it comes to this collection, Rolex is happy to break out of its conservative shackles and go wild.
The gem-clad Rainbow Daytona is the epitome of over-the-top glamour
Notable vintage models
Rolex has no qualms about dressing up the modern Daytona with all manner of gems, colours and materials, whether it's meteorite dials with gold Roman numerals or platinum models with sapphire casebacks. But pre-1990s, the Daytona was still a no-frills, built-for-purpose sports watch that was made primarily in steel.
That said, the previously mentioned reference 6263 was made in yellow gold as well as steel—albeit in fewer numbers—and these are now sought after, easily reaching six-figure sums at auction. Also made in yellow gold were references 6241 and 6265.
A 14k yellow-gold reference 6263. Image courtesy of Phillips
You’ll find that these older vintage models were made in both 18k and 14k yellow gold. Interestingly, it's been suggested that the US market far preferred the latter with its lighter tone of yellow and better durability due to its higher alloy content.
Steel or Precious metal? Things to consider…
If you want a Daytona but can’t decide between a steel and precious metal model, you might want to first consider where and how you’ll be wearing your watch. If you’re seeking a daily beater that rarely leaves your wrist, steel is the better option. Modern Daytonas are made from the brand’s incredibly tough 904L steel and this is about as durable as it gets.
Wear it in the sea, bash it about, take it on expeditions to Alaska… chances are it’ll pick up no more than a few superficial scratches.
Gold and platinum, however, accumulate scratches more easily and are more prone to dreaded dents and dinks. If this concerns you, then consider buying a gold or platinum Daytona as a special occasion watch only—one that won’t be as exposed to the casual bumps and knocks of daily life.
Still, with a platinum or gold watch, there’s something deeply reassuring about their weight, with both materials denser and heavier than steel. Platinum and gold models feel far more premium. Try one on for size the next time you get a chance and you'll see what we mean.
A yellow-gold reference 116518 with mother-of-pearl dial
Of course, platinum and gold Daytonas, at least when it comes to recent and current models, are far pricier than their steel counterparts. A brand-new steel Daytona costs £13,200 at the authorised dealer while precious-metal versions start at £27,900.
Not that it’s as easy as simply strolling into the Rolex AD and handing over your credit card. Such is the demand for Daytonas that pre-owned steel versions start at around £16k and pre-owned precious metal versions at around £20k—no waiting list required!
As we’ve seen, vintage is a whole different ball game, with stainless-steel 1970s “Paul Newman” Daytonas frequently selling for the price of a sizeable house.
Choose your Rolex Daytona carefully, and enjoy a true icon whose popularity and cool-factor never wavers.
